Winding, stomach-turning highways brought us to Delphi and the temple of Apollo today. A milennia and a half of pagan rituals could do nothing to darken the splendor of the view.
We awoke this morning and discovered the landscape that had been hidden when we arrived by the cover of night: the horizon sculpted by shrub-dotted mountains, ascending olive groves growing out of fields of yellow wildflowers. The air is warm, crisp, and smells like peppered olive oil. After the stale air and cramped seats during our flights and bus rides, this morning felt like heaven.